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If your hips are large in proportion to the upper part of your body, then
full hips are the problem. If your hips are in proportion to the upper part of
the body, but the waist appears small, then the problem lies in your waist. If
your waist is small, the garment's waist can be reduced by increasing the width
of darts and pleats. If your hips are large, the pattern needs to be increased
at the side seam in
the hip area.
The biggest mistake a full-hipped individual makes is thinking that pants
that are snug in the hips will hold in the hips, making them look smaller. This
is not so! To camouflage a full hip, the garment actually needs to be looser so
it won't lock onto the fullness. Full hips are better in drapey fabric, in
styles that are fuller at the hem, so that the hip appears smaller by
comparison. For the alteration given here, you will need to know your full hip
measurement, and how far down it is from your waist.
--Editors Tip ----------------------------------------------------------------------
Having Good Lighting is Essential to
Maintaining Your Good Eyesight
In
the darkest Middle Ages, wealthy women had their
lingerie and trousseaus made by convents of nuns
who sewed tiny stitches and made miles of lace—all
by hand, and all by candlelight. In fact, many
nuns went blind in this pursuit, with the fineness
of the work and the dimness of the convent
contributing to their loss of eyesight.
But there's no excuse for that now. Modern
electric lights are there for the asking.
Unfortunately, when it comes to sewing, many women
return to the Middle Ages, working on unlighted
machines in dimly lit rooms and crocheting in
front of the TV. A 60-watt bulb in a lampshade
isn't going to be useful if you're trying to sew a
straight seam or match a shade of wool! Use a full
spectrum lamp, which closely mimics natural
sunlight and reduces eye strain. You need to
arrange you full spectrum lamp in the best
position for your use and you will start to notice
how much quicker and easier it is to get your
sewing done.
See a selection of high quality
full spectrum
lamps that are great for sewing, computer use and
other crafting projects.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
FAST FIT SOLUTION
Determine the alteration amount by comparing your full hip measurement plus
ease to that of the
sewing pattern measurement. Make an addition to each side seam at the hip,
tapering out half of the addition by the bottom of the garment. A large addition
may also require adding at the waist, so that the side seams will not wrinkle
when pressed open.
STEP-BY-STEP SOLUTION
- Measure the circumference of your full hip, and the distance it is from
your waist.
- On the pattern, measure down the side seam the distance of your full
hip, starting at the waistline seam. Mark this spot with an X. Then
highlight the sizes that fit your measurements with a highlighter pen,
making smooth transitions to the smaller size at the waist.
- At the spot marked with an X, draw a line across the pattern
perpendicular to the grainline.
- 0n this line, measure between the seam-lines of your size on the front
and back of your pattern. Compare the flat pattern measurement to your
measurement plus ease. The difference is the total alteration amount. Divide
this by four to determine the amount you need to add to each side seam at
the hip.
- Make the side seam addition. Taper in only half of the addition by the
bottom of the garment; tapering in the full addition will just emphasize the
problem.
- If you're adding a lot—more than 1/2 in. (1.3cm)—at each side seam,
you'll also need to add to the waist. The extra at the waist can be taken
out with wider darts or pleats. Make a gradual transition into the waist for
a flattering silhouette; a curve that is too steep wrinkles when sewn in
fabric and put on the body.
FITTING TIPS
- The circumference at the bottom of a straight skirt or full pants can
always be tapered in for a slimmer effect. But don't overdo it—too much
tapering leaves the hips looking larger.
- If your garment has a pocket, there's no need to add to the pocket
facing or side front piece. The location of these pieces will move out with
the addition.
If you have to add a great deal at the hip, you will need to add some at the
waist so that the curve at the side seam is not too pronounced. The waist can be
reduced by increasing the size of the darts and the pleats.
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